The traditional chess clock has two time counters, one for each player. After a player makes his move, he pushes a button which stops his counter and starts the opponent’s one. This procedure continues until the end of the game. In analog clocks there is a flag that will fall if time is over for one player, while a digital clocks will beep to denote that. The Fischer-clock, proposed and named after former World Champion Grandmaster Robert Fischer (a totally enigmatic and admirable chess personality), is used in a similar way.

The difference is that a constant amount of time (say 5 or 10 seconds) is added after every move made. This helps prevent players from running into time-trouble. The negotiated time controls are in relevance with the chess clock used. Time controls may differ from game to game. Players need to take into account the time controls announced when a tournament is to take place. Typical examples are : ‘two hours for the whole game’, ‘one and half an hour for the first 40 moves and one hour for the rest’, ‘two hours for the first 40 moves and half an hour for every 20 moves thereafter’, ‘one hour and 15-seconds-added-per-move for the whole game (requires a Fischer-clock)’. Shorter time controls give chess games different names. A standard game usually has a time limit of two hours or more.

A rapid game falls in the range of 20-45 minutes and a blitz game in the range 5-15 minutes. There are even shorter time controls, for example 3 minutes per game or 1 minute per game (sometimes referred to as ‘lightning’ or ‘bullet’, can only be played online); one that is not very familiar with chess will find them exhausting. But what happens if a player fails to complete his moves in time? In general, he loses the game. There is an exception here : if the player who still has time does not have sufficient material to win, then the game is drawn. In addition, a player who would normally win the game, had he enough time, may call the arbiter and ask for a draw; the arbiter will check the position and make his decision. There are several issues regarding time controls but they are usually tournament-specific. For example, what happens if both players run out of time? This may actually happen some time, for a player may not notice his opponent’s flag fell until his own does too. Well, the game is drawn.

 In most tournaments players are responsible for checking their opponent’s time; in others the arbiter may indicate a flag fall as well. These details are indeed of minor importance and rules are reconsidered every now and then. What is really important is the way a player uses his time. One should try to avoid getting into time trouble; it is at least annoying and leads to bad results. One should also try not to play too quickly, or he takes the risk of blundering something.

 Use of time should be rational. If two hours are available for the whole game, this makes about 3 minutes per move (assuming a game is averaging about 40 moves). If one feels that the game is going to be rather lengthy, he may play a bit more fast. Early moves usually require little thought and some moves are more or less automatic. On the contrary, difficult situations will require more thinking and thus more time. In practical chess it is always good to have more time available than the opponent has, or at least about the same. And it is necessary to always to keep an eye on the clock.

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While that chess table won’t increase your skill level, it will make playing the game more comfortable and will certainly raise your ‘reputation’ among other players. As an added bonus, the better chess tables make a beautiful addition to the decor of any room.

Although you can find chess tables made from plastic and glass, there is nothing that says ‘class’ quite like those which are made from wood. You can find some beautiful and affordable tables that are made from oak, maple, mahogany, cherry and walnut. The price go up sharply when you start looking at models that are made from more rare and exotic woods like ebony, cocobolo, or teak.

Depending upon the style, the actual chess board is built right into the table top using either inlaid wood or other material including marble. Contrasting material colors are used to simulate the ‘black and white’ squares.

Chess tables usually come equipped with two felt-lined drawers, one on each side, so you can store the pieces and pawns. Top-of-the-line chess tables often times will have individual custom-fitted slots for each piece and pawn.

The lower and mid-range chess tables, regardless of the material they are made from, are usually mass produced in an assembly line environment. The more expensive ones are usually individually handmade. Prices range from under $100 for the off-the-shelf plastic, glass and low-grade wood models, to over $1500 and up for top-of-the-line and hand-made collector pieces. There are a great deal of selections available in the under $500 range as well.

Most chess tables come in a uniform height of 30? although custom and collector pieces may vary according to the manufacturer. On average, a chess table will be 30? wide and 30? deep although, again, that can vary greatly as well.

Of course, a chess table is of little use if you don’t have any chairs. Some chess tables include matching chairs, while others leave the chair selection process up to you. The key element in selecting chairs is to make sure that
they position your comfortably in relationship to the height of the chess table.

Keep in mind that many of the wood chess tables, especially those that are made out of the richer hardwoods, will require occasional cleaning and polishing/waxing. Most of them will also react unfavorably to the presence of moisture, so remember not to place any beverage containers or glasses on the table.

A good chess table is an investment that you can enjoy for years. But don’t worry if you can’t afford the best. Just get the most table that you can afford now and you can always trade up as time goes by.

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